Arrived in Santiago after three weeks on the road, getting some good results on the WQS. To them that surf, Chile is known as the ‘Land of the Lefts’, and I was keen to get me some.
Hooked up with Heath ‘Hunter’ Joske and Nick ‘China Doll’ Riley, then picked up a 4×4 truck and headed into the Santiago CBD to pick up another friend, Benny ‘The Rapist’ Serrano. Benny has been living in Chile for the past year and was going to be our guide during our “epic” adventure. Spent the next three hours driving down one blocked off road after another (the result of the recent earth quake) before arriving at our first destination, Punta de Lobos.
Benny had organized accommodation at the local surf camp. The place had amazing, luxury cabins. After booking in, we found our way to the bar and ordered a meal. We’re waiting for dinner to arrive when Benny receives a text from a girl he’s met. “Gotta go”. He grabs the keys to our pick-up and is out the door. There is some debate about his ability to drive a 4 x 4 until dinner arrived and hunger overcame any worries we had about the safety of our truck, which was insured, so even less concern.
Two bites into dinner and the lights go off. “That’ll be Benny, taken out a power pole” Joske joked. Laughs all round. Candles issued and eating continued. Five minutes later Benny staggers into the bar.
“You’re not going to believe what just happened”. He was driving down a dirt road, turned the wheel to go around a corner, and “nothing happened!?” Nothing that is until a spit second later when the truck slammed head-on into a power pole, snapped the pole in half, wrote off the truck and trashed several boards, including a couple of mine. He then got out of the truck – stepping carefully over the live wires surrounding it and walked back to the camp. So ended day number one.
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The last contest on the WQS was in Brazil, at Itauna, just north of Rio de Janeiro. I’d never been there so I was excited, not knowing what I was in for. I was traveling with a mate from Manly, Nick Riley, for the final two ‘6 stars’. It was his first time to Brazil and he was a little nervous after hearing a lot of ruff stories about the crime that happens in the favillas (slums, to you mono-lingo’s). And having no good stories of my own meant that I didn’t have anything that could coax him outdoors.
Itauna is on about the same latitude as our Gold Coast so it’s very warm. It sits on a peninsula pointing due south and cops every bit of south swell heading up the coast. The week we were there didn’t drop under 4 ft, maxing 8 ft at one stage. The set-up is a little like our beloved North Narra which had Hedgey in a bit of a spin. There’s a huge rock outcrop at the north end and the lefts run down the beach like a semi-perfect, left point break. On the other side of the rocks is a super heavy, below-sea-level right hand “keg”. The locals call it, ‘The Back Door’ and it’s as heavy as any 4ft slab I’ve ever surfed.
We had an awesome time in Itauna even though neither of us nailed a solid result. And Nick didn’t get robbed or murdered which he’s pretty frothing about. haha
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Luke Cheadle has spent the last year filming Glimpse, a vid directed by himself & good mate Sam Page. The flick follows their travels and antics among the WQS seas, giving an insight into what really goes on behind competition doors (parties, groupies, fame, groupies, waves, groupies…). Ahhhh if only we all were so lucky to live the dream.
Score a FREE copy with the July Issue of Waves (did somebody say free)?
Check out Luke’s blog The Tour Life here.